Wednesday, May 2, 2012

Welcome to Thailand


On a plane, you don't see where one country ends and another one begins. From above, borders don't exist. As we flew east, we said goodbye to the majestic Annapurnas and Langtang, the fertile Terai, the mighty Everest, and Tibet. Henri didn't care so much about missing out on China (because we were supposed to go there for 2 weeks after Tibet), and now that I've had time to think it over, I'm happy we didn't go this time because we would only make the Chinese Government richer; it felt like going there now while they hold the Tibetan people on display like zoo animals would only encourage them more, and perhaps embolden them to continue to encroach on other territories.

We soared past Bangladesh and looked longingly at Myanmar, another country we hoped to visit; but spending money there would only fund the military junta. It might have been especially epic to explore Myanmar because it looks so enchanting in pictures, and the people are lovely... Maybe someday. When the powers-that-be are no longer mass-murdering, child-enslaving jerks.

Arriving in Thailand was a physical shock. It was a blistering 40°, compared to the agreeable 16° of Kathmandu. At the airport, we were promised that we had arrived in the "Land of Smiles" and we are holding on to that promise; even though it's been two and a half weeks, and most of the time people are rude outside Bangkok... but we'll get to that later.

We were ecstatic to be out of the Indian subcontinent. Even though Nepal was a welcome break from India, it was still very similar to its neighbor. But this... This is Southeast Asia, baby! 

The style and level of cleanliness in the budget class is better!


The food is simple, but tasty! (We'd been dreaming of authentic Thai curry for a loooong time.)

And served with heart, hee hee.

Eating in the street poses no problem for the tummy! (As long as you ask for "not spicy" and get generous amounts of ice for your Pepsi.)


The roads are paved and the buses are BRAND-SPANKING-NEW!


Our quest to get lost in the little streets was rewarded by insights into the culture...


And sights that cannot be unseen...


And call us shallow, but we've been missing ordinary things like Burger King.


Walking outside in the heat was agony, but on our first two days, most of the important things to see were just around the block.



Our guest house was next to the river, and at times it reminded us of Paris. It was a funny coincidence that we found this café... Shout out to Vivi!


It was here that we waited for the sunset...


At dusk we saw monks going inside the Temple of Dawn.


The flower market was a side trip, because we could reach it on foot and it was open all night.



Something to show Cecile, who just opened up a flower shop...



Another thing that's open all night?


Pattong. And you can buy all sorts of things. Even things you don't really need in your life. We kept being invited into "ping pong shows" and the usual spiel was: "you see, you don't like, never mind! you buy beer, you sit down, never mind! you don't buy beer, never mind!" I lost my mind talking to that woman.


If we were on an ordinary holiday, the vibe in chaotic Khao San Road would make us run away. But this time, after a spell in conservative Nepal, it felt like freedom. Of course, even though it is hot, I would prefer that men AND WOMEN kept their shirts on while in public. (Lots of half-naked people roaming around Thailand. Yoiks!)



But these Koreans refused to get some sun. There were more of them before this picture was taken, all trying to get under the umbrella and slathering sunscreen on their pale skin. Then they ran under the bridge for shelter. So cute!


For the first time in 2 months, I broke a sweat during a "liesurely walk."


Outside the Grand Palace


In the park across the palace, there was a group of monuments that looked like a a theme park. Neither of us remembered a "Disneyland" there in our previous visits to Bangkok (Henri in 1997 and me in 2008). There were no signs posted outside, but there were guards sizing up the people going inside. We asked someone what was going on and he said, with some difficulty finding the words, "it is the funeral of my king's sister." We were impressed. My king talaga (for real)? The people here really love their royalty, and I guess the king did much for them to be admired so.




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