High Pursuits

April 5 to April 11. 

I didn't really sleep much on our first night in Kyanjin Gompa, which is 3,900 meters above ground. In fact, I couldn't sleep at high altitude, and it was our third night in the mountains. All night, I could hear bells outside the window and at dawn I realized the owners had tied their pony at the fence just in front of our room. I woke Henri up just before the sun came out and we ran outside to greet the morning.

The snow was 10 centimeters thick and our roof looked like it was slushied :)

April Fool's Birthday

Since we were hoping to go to Tibet with the first tour group on April 14th, we arrived just in time to have our visas in Nepal renewed until the 15th of April. We walked a loooong way because the bus system is confusing, but in the end it was a good thing we walked, otherwise we would not have come across a professor who told us the immigration office had moved. Henri was suspicious in the beginning, but the old man was right after all, so the Panda had to eat his words...

A few days later, we finished our visit of Durbar Sq, and a crazy tout was trying to start a fight with Henri... in fairness to Henri though, he was more patient than usual and did not try to engage the man even though he was screaming things like: "I'm Nepali I can do what I want in my country." Which is stupid, really. They must think all tourists would slink away when confronted. A plainclothes policeman interrupted them just when Henri was starting to lose it, and told the tout to go away.

Then we were left alone to promenade in peace.

Shiva and Parvati watch the slow march of life from their balcony.

One of the carvings found in the most beautiful courtyard in Kathmandu - the Living Goddess's front yard.

We also went to some tour agencies to see what the Tibet border status was. One of them suggested we go to the Chinese Embassy to confirm certain conflicting information, so we did - without knowing what the office schedules are. DUH! So we walked far just to find out that the Chinese Embassy was closed and a military platoon was guarding the gates. Wonder why? *Wink, wink* BUT we didn't walk for nothing...

Around Kathmandu

Going to Swayambhu, we came across an enlightening sight. All the plastic in the city had gone to the river.

There were temples on the way and we stopped at each one. We are beginning to grow used to the Nepalis, who don't charge entrance fees to their temples. It's such a nice change.

At Swayambu, I counted 400 steps up; but some say it's closer to 350.

Both Hindus and Buddhists come here to worship.

Behind the houses, there were men digging out these old statues!

Ratna Park and Durbar Square (NOT for children)

February 29 - March 2

We were so busy arranging the itinerary for the next two weeks that we didn't have time to visit Durbar Square on our third day in Kathmandu. 

We felt we needed to dedicate a full day for the square because we have to pay 750 Rs for the entrance fee, and it would be a waste of money if we could only be there for a few hours, so we went to Ratna Park instead.

On the way, we passed by this popular suicide spot, now understandably closed to the public.

We were surprised to realize that Ratna park is also the bus park. It was full of people, and vendors covered every square inch. I got a pair of warm socks and Henri tried to look for underwear, but they only had designer labels like Calvin "Klen."

We tried momos from the cart... FINGERS CROSSED!

And said "no, thanks" to Bhimsen Tower because of the excessive entrance fee. We had a view of the city from the overpass, and there was not much to see because of the haze :-/

We finally had time to go to Durbar Sq a days later.

It's the former seat of power, and at one time, only heirs that were born here could become king.

It was the week before Holi so it was also a very colorful day to visit.

The first thing that welcomed us was this altar to Bhairab, Shiva's blood-thirsty avatar. Adjacent to this statue, there is a stage where goats (and just a few days ago, A BULL) are killed as a sacrifice on special holidays.

What's there to do in Kathmandu? (Feb 28)

Lots. On our first day, we did the historic walk around Thamel and south of Durbar Square after having a much-deserved breakfast at Gaia. 

Buddhist and Hindu temples abound in Kathmandu, and some of them have veeery interesting things you should keep your eye out for.

Souvenir shops.

A 3rd century sculpture just chillin' in the street.

The tootchache god. It's in a section of town with a lot of dentists.

The Great Escape (Feb 25 - 27)

I had a bad fever and our train ticket to Gorakhpur was still #35-36 the day before the trip to the border of Nepal. Our visas were expiring soon so we weighed our options and thought of:

a) going to the border of Nepal by bus - a two-day project that  would be hard to attempt given my health situation (I was coughing out blood!!!) plus, the bus fares would be triple that of the train fare

b) finding another train route... which would end up with us taking the bus again at one point or another, and if we couldn't get on the train that we booked more than a month ahead, what would be the chances of us getting a train a day before?

c) getting a plane from Delhi to Kathmandu

Well, all options considered, we realized the two most feasible were going by bus or taking a plane, and because taking a plane was only 50 euros more than the bus option, we thought it would be worth paying the extra 50 for the convenience of taking a plane. 

So while Henri cancelled the train ticket and looked for the bus station of Delhi, I tried to book the plane to Kathmandu.

February 26 – 27

So we took a bus to Delhi the next afternoon, and outside our window was a virtual greatest hits of sights we saw on our five-month road trip in India.

The breathtaking landscape, the wandering cows, four acrobatic men in one scooter (the most we could do was three: me, Henri and the bike renter, who came for us when our bike was stolen by a drunk Israeli in Auroville), and let's not forget about the bikes carrying livestock, bed frames, and once, even a washing machine!

Sometimes the villages would remind us of other places we've seen; either back when we were wide-eyed newcomers in October, or in the months that followed, when we were sleepy-eyed backpackers just dreaming of the next shower.

 

But we also saw the heartbreaking side of India: the indiscriminate mining and destruction of mountains, the trash, the pollution, the way they play fast and loose with their treatment of children.

Our last stop was a roadside restaurant where Indian passengers are left alone to pee, but foreigners like us are hassled to pay 5 to 10 rupees. Oh, I won't miss that! It was just in front of a cement factory that turned the sky black even before sunset.

We reached Delhi at 8. Dropped off on the highway, we had a vague idea of where the airport was (no more than 2 kilometers away) and taxi drivers offered their services for 300 rupees. Maybe they thought we were stupid because they kept trying to convince us the airport is “very far” after we told them to get lost. But one guy found us and said he'd take us for 50 rupees, that sounded about right so we quit trying to be heroes and took a cab to the airport. Mheheh.

It felt a bit nostalgic to be back where it all started. We never planned it, but the trip in India came full circle. Look at how much Henri has changed! He didn't have a “moustak” back then.

Our flight was at 7am, and after some hijinks at the departure area because of silly airport rules (everything has a catch, I don't understand why they have posters up announcing they have the 2^nd best airport in the world – who voted in this poll? Their moms?) we were flying!

Namaskar, Nepal!

We slept in the airport in Delhi to make it to our 7.30am flight to Kathmandu on time (AND to save some money). Like we've told some friends, we were planning to go to Nepal by land; but the Indian Rail System didn't want to cooperate with us. The ticket we took in January was still on the waiting list by the day of travel and we only had a few days left beefore our visas expire. So we explored other options: other train routes, private and government buses, but considering the effort and expenses we decided the best thing was to take a flight straight to Kathmandu.

It was the best way to see the Himalayas for the first time.

By 9:30 in the morning, we were in a totally new country. A. Totally. New. Country. I guess we should leave the details for later, because we still have a few India entries to finish, but Henri and I were sighing in relief over a nice breakfast today about the big differences between India and Nepal, just like we were last night over a simple but fantastic dinner, and some home brew called "Everest Beer."

Henri wrote on our journal:

After 24h in NEpal we are amazed! It feels like a simple border makes India and Nepal totally different. Here are the little things that are so different and feel SO good after 5 months in India, which now feels like we came out of a cultural jail:


1) People dress like modern countries... (and women and men can hold hands in public, not just men! - Marj)
2) Alcohol is sold everyshere, you can go to any restaurant or bar and have a beer/whiskey!
3) Food is good and tasty, made with love and care - there is bacon and sausage and steak! Feels like India is ok with "good enough" and here "good enough is not good enough." No more boys trying to cook in the kitchens, there are real cooks who know what they do.
4) Service is great, people speak really good English. The cook at Gaia Café saw I was looking at him and waving and tells the waiter to look. He sees me and waves back, meaning "I got you and I come ASAP." Wow! That seems crazy but it feels GREAT after 5 months of India!
5) No cows in the streets, no poop everywhere. Ok, it's poor, like India, but the shops look better, there are bars and live music, and respect. People propose their taxi ro rickshaw (or Tigar Balm, hehe - Marj)  but don't bother you if you say no, they just go. Same with shops. No agression! We are so paranoiac now we are always on the defense, ready to bite the bad people. Not saying there are no bad people here but if there are, they are so nice compared with most Indians.


Voilà, I am sure there will be more in the next few days but we already feel relieved.